Chasing the lake-effect snow across the Tug Hill plateau
When snow-starved cross country skiers hear the words, "lake effect," we carefully chase to the Tug.
Updated November 30 - The lake effect snow machine in upstate and western New York started last night and is forecasted to last until Monday night at 7 PM.
The weather forecasters predict anywhere from 4 to 6 feet in the most persistent lake snows.
I wrote the following post last winter as I waited for the lake effect snow to come. This storm seems enormous. Hopefully, the snow will settle by Tuesday and I can drive up to the Tug to ski. Another adventure I am sure.
Timing is everything: a snowy rendezvous between the lake and its geography
The Tug Hill Plateau, located in the far reaches of New York State, is legendary for the prevalence of “lake effect” snowstorms due to its proximity to Lake Ontario. Most winters, the deep waters of Lake Ontario prevent the lake from freezing. Cold winds blow down from the arctic Canadian mountains and whip across the warmer lake waters and shoot masses of moisture east to the plateau.
Dumps and dumps of snow rapidly arrive making the roads impassable. Local towns come to a standstill for days while snowplows do their thing. Intense bands of persistent snow continue to rage for days. The wind whips the snow across the roads and the ski trails. In many years, over 200 inches of snow drop on the Tug.
A winter of waiting for the ‘lake effect’ to start churning
This winter, desperation set in. The anemic snow craved for fuel - moisture, cold air, wind and hope. We had one nor’easter in January and then the snow just limped along - like an electric vehicle running out of juice. Locally, our snow was practically non-existent. I had to resort to skiing on a boring golf course, at a local park and herringboning to the top of a local state forest to make tracks on a farmer’s field.
I guess I am a selfish cross-country skier - demanding the perfect lake-effect storm - lots of dry and fluffy snow that sticks around for weeks. Is that too much to ask? All I craved now was to clip into my skis and glide between the snow-laden trees to listen to the sounds of the snow breathing in the forest.
Finally, the lake effect snow machine started to chug
Overnight, a foot of snow fell on the plateau. Winter storm warnings were issued for several areas. By early the next morning, another 6 inches fell. Woo hoo. Local snow spotters and well-placed live webcams provided the proof. My dreams had been answered. Now I needed to safely travel there.
The trick is to get to the Tug just after the storm settles, most of the roads have been plowed and the trailhead parking looks feasible.
Osceola - a hamlet of hotbed nordic activity on the Tug Hill Plateau
Osceola, a small town of just 141 people, is home to two of the most popular cross country ski destinations in New York State - Osceola Tug Hill XC Ski Center and the Osceola Ski and Sport Resort - located less than one minute from each other. Both depend on the whims and forces of the lake-effect snow. Both destinations feed off of each other for skier attraction. Just last month, the 10th Mountain Division from Ft Drum trained here in full winter gear, including skis and backpacks.
Today, my destination is Osceola Ski and Sport owned and run by Dustin and most of his family. Although it is bitterly cold and windy, the parking lot is packed with other snow chasers - all desperate to get on the snow and stride into the woods.
With all the snow that recently fell, I am hoping to ski most of the steeper downhills provided Dustin and his father had rolled and packed them enough. About 16 - 18 inches fell in the past 48 hours.
A windchill of 7 degrees warranted covering most of my face with a fleece-lined balaclava
Warmed up on the easier trails
I was very cold as I headed to the trailhead for the easier trails - Easy Way and the Field. I knew I needed to warm up my muscles - my arms and my legs - before I took on harder terrain. I needed to pace myself. Too fast, too soon - a recipe for disaster - especially if I wanted to ski again tomorrow.
As soon as I felt my muscles starting to work, I stopped for a bit along Nature’s Corner and Chloe’s Cool-Down trails where I soaked in the surroundings - the deep snow and the snow-laden trees.
Ready to take on the steeper terrain
After a short lunch break in the warming lodge where I fueled with their homemade soup, I headed out the Main Street trail with the goal of climbing up Dustin’s Descent and conquering most the trails on the northern hillside. When I arrived at Coach’s Corner, I took a short break to catch my breath. I had the whole place to myself - a perfect time to bathe in the forest canopy - before I started to feel cold and knew I needed to start gliding again.
Conquered the Fault
Today, I felt confident that I could turn my skis as needed to take on Christina’s Fault - rated a Black Diamond descent. As I approached the top of the Fault, I gathered my mental strength and started down gingerly to maintain control. The soft snow helped to give me the brakes as needed. As I approached the finish of the Fault, I wondered how long it would be before I could return to ski this hill again.
When the lake effect flies to the Tug, skiers flock. The forest trails beckon. The snow stands tall. Skiers disappear into the white heaven.
Hoping for a bit more snow coverage here in CNY after tonight to be able to stay local, if not I'll be headed to Tug Hill Friday or Saturday (before it warms up😢)
Wonderful!!