The Grand Canyon, Twenty Years Later: A Fresh Lens on a Legendary Landscape

Follow along with me as I plan another rim-to-rim hike in October 2025

Hiking down the South Kaibab Trail (Photo Credit: Billy McDonald)

Twenty years ago, in 2005, I dropped down into the canyon with my husband for an epic backcountry backpack adventure across the Grand Canyon - from the North Rim to the South Rim.

Our hike in October 2005 covered about 24 miles over three days with total elevation gain and loss of about 11,000 feet. Along the way, we camped at two different backcountry campsites - the Cottonwood Campground and the Bright Angel Campground.

Photo below: just starting our adventure in October 2005

In hindsight, I had little understanding of what lay ahead and I was woefully unprepared for the physical, mental and emotional demands of the trek.

Perhaps ignorance truly is bliss - but in that unknowing, I think I failed to fully grasp the magnitude of what I was experiencing.

After all, the Grand Canyon isn’t just any place - it is one of the seven wonders of the world.

I began my journey twenty years ago, lacking reverence, wisdom, and any clear vision of what lay below. Though I reached the South Rim, it was by the narrowest margin - with a lot of mental strength.

Why return? Why take on such a grueling hike again?

Two decades later, I’m not the same person I was. Today, I hike with greater confidence - shaped by years of experience and hard-earned trail wisdom (I hope).

More than anything, I’ve found that as I grow older, I crave challenges more and more. Pushing myself physically not only keeps me feeling young, but also deeply alive.

Above all, I feel a spiritual unrest today - a sense that I had not yet honored this canyon as a living temple, worthy of deeper presence and devotion.

A little bit of history about the early exploration of the Grand Canyon

Photo Credit: Arizona State University Archives

Our Native American peoples, especially our Ancestral Puebloans lived in and traversed the Grand Canyon for thousands of years. In so doing, they created our early footpaths and used them for hunting, trade and travel.

In the late 1800’s, explorers from both Europe and our Americas began mapping the area. John Wesley Powell, the one-armed Civil War veteran, led the first expedition down the Colorado River through the canyon in 1869.

The first established but primitive trails like the Bright Angel Trail and the North Kaibab Trail began as paths used by our indigenous people, miners, ranchers and those who wish to develop the place for others to visit.

"The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond comparison—beyond description; absolutely unparalleled throughout the wide world... Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is."
— John Wesley Powell

Below: Hikers at Ooh Aah Point on the South Kaibab Trail - a popular viewpoint not far from the South Rim.

Photo Credit: Kelly vanDellen via Adobe Photos

Getting ready: my planning notes

Follow along with me as I map out my adventure hiking the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim in October.

This post is the first in a series of posts on my trip planning and preparation.

Some of the topics I plan to cover:

• Hiking routes from rim-to-rim

• Logistics of planning a point-to-point hike

• Dangers of hiking below the rim

• Timing of the hike (heat, shade)

• The gear I plan to take

• Training and preparation

• Nutrition and hydration

You gain strength, courage and confidence by every experience in which you really stop to look fear in the face.
- Eleanor Roosevelt

Recommended books, maps and other resources

Grand Canyon Rim to Rim History, Dave Crockett - A 130-year history of rim-to-rim travel in the Grand Canyon tracing the evolution of the trails, bridges, Phantom Ranch, and the water pipeline through firsthand accounts and historical narratives. Fascinating history of how life was below the rim.

Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon, Michael Ghiglieri and Thomas Myers - A gripping (and many times tragic) account of over 550 deaths in the Grand Canyon, from 1869 to today. Organized by cause - falls, dehydration, floods, and more - the book combines vivid stories with vital safety lessons for those interested in visiting the Grand Canyon.

How Not to Die at Grand Canyon Guide, Dr Tom Myers - The author shares life-saving tips in a small booklet which can be carried on your hike and used as a survival guide for anyone venturing below the rim.

Hiking the Grand Canyon, John Annerino - a Sierra Club guide to the trails in the Grand Canyon

A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon, Stephen Whitney - if you like to carry a compact guide with full-color photos of the canyon’s wildlife, plant life and geology with descriptions of more than 480 species, then this is a nice companion to bring along.

A Walk in the Park - A True Story, Kevin Fedarko - Kevin writes about his 750 mile journey through the Grand Canyon with Pete McBride, a photographer. With minimal preparation, he documents their harrowing expedition, extreme physical demands, bad weather, and many mishaps. I keep picking this book up and reading a little bit at a time.

National Geographic: Grand Canyon North and South Rims Topographic Map - the best paper-based map to have.

Recommended online resources

National Park Service - Grand Canyon - excellent resource for up-to-date trail conditions and water availability

Bright Angel Outfitters - hosts the world’s #1 Grand Canyon-themed podcast covering hiking in the Grand Canyon.

The Hiking Guy - Cris Hazzard, a professional hiking guide and author provides excellent resources on hiking in the Grand Canyon. His YouTube video (below) is an excellent overview of the rim to rim trails.

Outdoors with Jenn is always free, but if I wrote something that resonates with you, I am happy to accept a cup of coffee. Thank you for reading.